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  • Writer's picturecharliewilliams

Joyeux Noël

Christmas is a unique and special time all over the globe, and Senegal is no different. Although a majority Muslim country, there were still touches of holiday cheer to be found: billboards wishing a “Joyeux Noël” [Merry Christmas], a small nativity scene in the church, and Christmas advertisements on the television. However, it felt totally different being away from the complete holiday overload we have in the States. No Christmas music that started in November. No pressure to buy the biggest/best gift. No mall Santas to be seen. At first I missed these touches of American Christmas tradition. But after spending the holiday here, I came to appreciate the meaning of the Senegalese version of the holiday: family.


Family, friends, and neighbors celebrating at Penda's House in Mbour.

I was lucky this year to be invited to spend Christmas with my site supervisor, Penda, and her family in Mbour. Because my host family is muslim, they wanted me to travel with Penda’s family to experience how Senegalese Christians celebrate. We arrived in Mbour Monday evening and I stayed until the afternoon on the 26th. Most of our time spent together was cooking, chatting, and enjoying the company of family. On the 24th, the children and I were tasked with decorating the house for the holiday. We put up “Happy Birthday” balloons, streamers, and lights on the little Christmas tree. Then, that night, Penda and I headed to the village’s Catholic church to attend midnight mass. This is one tradition I have found that spans across all Christian denominations in Senegal, and one that Muslims are familiar with too. The service felt familiar and warm, and the sermon focused on the importance of family.


Penda, her sons, and I. As the only two Christians at the house, Penda and I got ready for Christmas Eve mass together.
Fun with the kids, celebrating Christmas Eve together!

When I woke up the next day, it was Christmas morning! However, instead of sitting down with my American family around the Christmas tree to open presents, I hailed a taxi and headed to Mbour’s Catholic church in the heart of the city. The pews were packed with people celebrating the birth of Jesus Christ. After the service ended, I headed back to Penda’s home, where we commenced the Christmas feast, another of the main traditions for the holiday. We ate chicken that day, which I learned is cooked for special occasions. We also made more plates to give to friends, family, and neighbors. That night, Penda, her family, and I spent time visiting friends and family, wishing everyone a “Joyeux Noël” and enjoying each others company. It truly was a lovely holiday spent with people who cared about me. Being with people who welcomed me in as family made it a little easier being away from home for the holidays.


The main Catholic church in Mbour. This is where I went for Christmas morning mass.

Our little Christmas tree made it feel more like the holidays here. The children and I decorated with balloons and streamers for the holiday.

Reflecting on my time spent in Mbour and experiencing Christmas in a new way taught me a few things. First, I now know that I don’t need all the grandeur of Christmas in America. The holiday is less about bows, lights, and tinsel and more about the company you keep and the love you share with one another. Second, gift giving shouldn’t be the main focus of the holiday. In Senegal, while I gave my hosts small hand made presents, overall gift giving is not apart of the tradition here. This was hard to reconcile with at first, because I love to show my appreciation for others through giving, but I had to remember what the message at mass was. Christmas is not about things, Christmas is about family. Having people you care about and that care about you is the best gift in the world.

A Senegalese dish made special for Christmas. We had chicken over pasta with an onion sauce. Other plates were made and delivered to friends and family.

I hope that everyone had a wonderful Christmas season back in the USA, or wherever you are reading this blog post. Wishing everyone a Happy New year and many blessings. Love to you all.


Be kind to yourself and be kind to others.

Peace,

Charlie

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